For Regina and John Zdravich, the Italian dream began more than 20 years ago, after a friendship with a young Italian exchange student they were hosting got them thinking about the future.
The couple from Northwest Indiana had no way of knowing at the time it would send them on an intercontinental odyssey that would encompass frustration, homelessness and finally happiness in an unexpected destination.
It was back in 2001 when they formed a close bond with their young lodger, going on to visit her in Italy three times, during which they 鈥渇ell in love鈥 with the country and began to think about what life would be like if they moved there.
鈥淭hen we had another foreign exchange student from Germany,鈥 John tells CNN Travel.
鈥淎nd we started thinking, 鈥榃ell, maybe we would do this, because we kept going back to visit them in Europe.鈥
As they got closer to their retirement, the couple, who鈥檝e been married since 1988, started to take the idea more seriously.
鈥淲e had lived in the US all our lives and wanted to try something different,鈥 says Regina, who had several different jobs over the years, but was working as a bookkeeper before retiring.
They were also keen to downsize.
鈥淥ur house was too big for us,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淎nd we knew we would have to move somewhere. And then we thought, 鈥楲et鈥檚 just go overseas.鈥欌
The Zdravichs, who both retired at the age of 62, had gotten to know Italy well during their visits, so it was top of their list of destinations to move to.
After doing some research into the prospect, they decided to go for it, and set about selling their three-bedroom home in Northwest Indiana in 2017.
The couple then packed some of their essential belongings into a crate, shipped them over to Italy, and 鈥渟tarted getting rid of everything we owned.鈥
鈥淲e started selling stuff online, as much stuff as we could sell,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淲e gave a bunch to charity. It took a long time to get rid of everything.鈥
According to John, they 鈥渄id well鈥 from the sale of their house and were 鈥減retty financially comfortable鈥 as they prepared to relocate.
The Zdravichs left the US for Italy in January 2018, with their cat Sonya in tow. But things didn鈥檛 exactly go to plan.
They moved into an apartment in Salerno, near Naples, and began the process of applying for an elective residence visa, also known as an Italian retirement visa, a long-stay permit for non-EU citizens with a specific amount of passive income who intend to take residence in Italy.
鈥淲e needed a national fiscal ID (a tax code similar to a Social Security number) and we needed a lease on an apartment proving we had a place to stay,鈥 says Regina.
After three months, the couple returned to the US to complete the rest of the process through the Italian Consulate in Detroit, hoping they鈥檇 be able to return to the country permanently once they had their paperwork in order.
While they provided as much documentation as they could, the Zdravichs say they found the process 鈥渁n absolute nightmare,鈥 and reached a major stumbling block when they were asked to produce their income tax returns with their retirement income.
鈥淭hat wasn鈥檛 going to happen for another year,鈥 says Regina, pointing out that she had only retired at the end of 2017.
Realizing that they were unlikely to be approved without these details, the disheartened couple chose to withdraw their application, and asked for their passports to be sent back to them.
鈥淭hen we thought, 鈥榃hat the hell are we going to do?鈥欌 adds Regina.
At this point, the couple, who鈥檇 been staying in Airbnbs in Indiana and northern Wisconsin while they submitted their paperwork, didn鈥檛 really have anywhere to go.
鈥淲e were homeless,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淲e had no home. No car. Nothing. And it was winter in Northwest Indiana, which is snow, ice, all that kind of stuff.鈥
Unsure of what step to take next, they chose to return to Italy to try to figure things out.
While they were there, the Zdravichs scoured website forums for advice or information from others who鈥檇 been in similar situations and learned that some who鈥檇 struggled to gain residency in Italy had chosen to retire to Spain instead.
鈥淲e thought, 鈥極kay, we can do that,鈥欌 says Regina.
John, pictured in Spain, says he and his wife they got the idea to move to Europe after travelling over to visit two foreign exchange students who had stayed with them. (Regina Zdravich via CNN Newsource)
As the couple had never visited Spain before, they decided to travel there to see if it was somewhere they could envision themselves living.
鈥淲e鈥檇 been back to Italy a number of times and travelled to quite a bit of the country鈥 But Spain had never been on our radar, other than being able to point to it on the map,鈥 admits John.
While in the country, they took a gamble and signed a year-long lease on an apartment so that they鈥檇 have a place to stay if everything worked out.
The Zdravichs then decided to return to the US once again, renting an apartment in Chicago, while they got their affairs in order.
At this stage, John, whose father is from southeast European country Serbia, began the process of obtaining Serbian citizenship, which would ultimately make a move to another European country much simpler if things were to go wrong again.
鈥淲e were kind of located near the Serbian consulate and the Spanish consulate (in the US),鈥 says Regina. 鈥淪o then we started the process with both of them.鈥
John鈥檚 Serbian citizenship came through after about a month, according to Regina.
The couple were granted Non-Lucrative visas (or retirement visas,) a permit that allows non-EU nationals to live in the country without working or engaging in any professional activity, for Spain, within around three months.
鈥淚t was a process that was like having a full-time job,鈥 she adds.
In August 2018, around eight months after originally leaving the US for Italy, the Zdravichs arrived back in Spain to begin their new lives.
The change of location created much confusion for the couple during their first few months in the country, particularly when it came to the language.
鈥淚t was kind of disorienting, because we had been studying Italian,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淎nd literally overnight, we got rid of all of our Italian books and Rosetta Stone and went out and got it in Spanish.鈥
Despite their disorientation, the couple threw themselves into life in Spain, basing themselves in beach town Oliva, situated in the region of Valencia.
The Zdravichs quickly found that they enjoyed the Spanish lifestyle very much.
鈥淭he Spanish like to have fun,鈥 says John, adding that he finds Spaniards to be 鈥渁 little more laid back.鈥
鈥淭his would be a great place to have been 40 years younger. They have their fiestas. We have fun.鈥
The couple, who had previously bought and renovated homes together, went on to purchase a three-bedroom home in the town of Garcia in Catalonia, northeastern Spain, with two hectares of land for 165,000 euros (around US$184,000) in November 2018.
They paid 165,000 euros (around US$184,000) for their three-bedroom home in Garcia, Spain. (Regina Zdravich via CNN Newsource)
鈥淲e had horses when we lived in the U.S., and we knew we wanted to have horses again,鈥 says Regina.
鈥淪o that鈥檚 why a place with land was attractive to us. And plus, we鈥檙e in sort of a nature-zone area.
鈥淔or us and what we wanted to do, it was just the perfect setting, even though it was in Catalonia, which has its own language and wants to break away from Spain.鈥
While the house 鈥渨as in really good shape,鈥 the Zdravichs went on to spend around 10,000 euros (about US$11,187) on renovation work, and a further 15,000 euros on a new solar power system.
鈥淲e鈥檙e actually on the River Ebro, which the Spanish might not think is that big of a deal,鈥 says John.
鈥淏ut in the United States, to be living on a major river is, even though I don鈥檛 fish anymore, it鈥檚 nice.鈥
The couple moved to Spain in 2018, and ended up living in a town along the River Ebro in Catalonia. (Regina Zdravich via CNN Newsource)
One of the biggest struggles they say they鈥檝e encountered since relocating has been learning the language, particularly now that they鈥檙e in Catalonia, which has its own language, Catalan 鈥 as well as its own parliament and flag.
The autonomous region held a referendum for independence from Spain back in 2017.
鈥淪ometimes we get mixed up鈥 They speak Catalan, especially in these small towns,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淭hey want to hang on to their Catalan language.
鈥淎nd we need to know Spanish because all of the official stuff that we have to do is done in Spanish鈥
鈥淭he fact that there is a second language here, has made our progress a little bit slower I think.鈥
John points out that many of their friends in the country are retirees from England, which hasn鈥檛 helped matters.
鈥淲e do take language classes,鈥 he says. 鈥淏ut since we don鈥檛 work, we speak English to each other (all the time).鈥
Another aspect of living in Spain that Regina finds difficult is the use of the metric system.
鈥淚鈥檓 baffled,鈥 she admits. 鈥淩ecipes baffle me because I just can鈥檛 get my head wrapped around it. I鈥檓 finally getting used to the temperature.鈥
The couple, who now have long-term residency cards, have found Spain to be much more affordable than the U.S., particularly when it comes to eating out.
鈥淪ometimes it鈥檚 almost like you can鈥檛 afford not to go out to dinner,鈥 says John. 鈥淏ecause it鈥檚 so affordable.
鈥淎nd if you don鈥檛 like wine, you鈥檙e in the wrong place. Because wine here is excellent and it鈥檚 affordable.鈥
The Zdravichs are also full of praise for the country鈥檚 鈥渁mazing鈥 public healthcare system.
They say they bought a private health insurance policy during their 鈥渇irst couple of years鈥 in Spain, but were then able to register for healthcare after providing their residency documentation and health records.
Catalonia has its own public health system, which can be accessed by any of its residents.
鈥淛ohn had to have back surgery, we didn鈥檛 pay a penny,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淵ou go and you buy a prescription, and you can use your pocket change.
鈥淚n the U.S., it鈥檚 just insane how expensive health care is. And here it just isn鈥檛.鈥
According to Regina, the couple save a lot of money each year on her asthma medication, which wasn鈥檛 covered by her health insurance in the U.S.
However, there are some things that are more expensive in Spain.
鈥淲e pay more in income taxes in Spain than what we do in the United States,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut I feel like we get a lot for it鈥 The roads are in perfect condition. There鈥檚 a lot of social type services if you need them.鈥
Although they鈥檝e also found fuel to be more costly in Spain, the couple say that they drive shorter distances now, so this hasn鈥檛 impacted them massively.
鈥淕oing out to do things is way less expensive than what it is in the US,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淪o overall, it鈥檚 a lot cheaper to live here.
鈥淟iving in the U.S. on the money that we have, I think it would be a little more tricky.鈥
The Zdravichs have only returned home a few times since relocating to Spain permanently and say that, while they miss their friends, they don鈥檛 miss living there.
鈥淎merica鈥檚 pretty much gone off the deep end right now,鈥 says John. 鈥淲e watch the evening news every night, and you just sit there and you go, 鈥業t鈥檚 getting crazier and crazier.鈥欌
They have no desire to return permanently, and say they keep their visits to a minimum as they find travelling long distances particularly gruelling nowadays.
When reflecting on their unsuccessful attempt to obtain residency for Italy, the couple now feel that things might have turned out differently if they鈥檇 hired an immigration lawyer.
In fact, they say they鈥檇 advise anyone attempting to relocate to a new country permanently to use one, provided that they 鈥渉ave the money to be able to do that.鈥
鈥淲e did it all on our own, and it was an awful lot of work,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淭here鈥檚 a lot of documentation you鈥檝e got to pull together鈥 You have to be organized.鈥
Although they were 鈥渧ery, very disappointed鈥 to have to give up on their Italian dream in 2018, the Zdravichs are now very happy in Spain and remain in touch with the former exchange student who first introduced them to the idea of living in Italy.
鈥淲e had our hearts set on Italy,鈥 says Regina. 鈥淏ut in hindsight, I think it might have worked out better.鈥
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