Models under the age of 16 won't be strutting across the "catwalk" at this year's London Fashion Week.
The move to allow only models aged 16 or older to participate in one of the fashion industry's most prestigious events comes on the heels of a report issued by Model Health Inquiry. The inquiry was set up by the British Fashion Council, which organizes London Fashion week, amid an international debate about models who appear to be unhealthily skinny.
It also follows the starvation-related deaths of South American models Ana Carolina Reston, 21, and sisters Louisel and Eliana Ramos. All died in the past year.
Models participating in next year's London Fashion Week, an event that features dozens of international designers, will also have to provide a medical certificate from an eating disorder specialist attesting to their good health.
"During the investigation, evidence of vulnerability of women in the modeling profession was startling and models are at high risk of eating disorders," said Baroness Kingsmill, the inquiry chair.
To acquire control of widespread health issues in the profession, the inquiry's report recommends that models with severe eating disorders such as anorexia not be allowed to participate in next year's fashion week. Kingsmill has noted that the girls with some milder eating disorders could take part, but only if they had their doctor's permission.
Some health professionals are welcoming the move as a step forward for the fashion industry.
"This is going to put the onus on the industry as a whole to have some kind of responsibility," Dr. Linda Papadopoulos, a psychologist, told Â鶹´«Ã½.
Those who ordered the study say it's a sign the industry is addressing the issue proactively.
"I think by commissioning the report in the first place, it shows that we do want to understand the issues and then do something about them," said Hilary Riva of the British Fashion Council.
The report also suggested that models participating in fashion week face random drug tests, but it's unclear if that recommendation will be enacted. The report's 14 recommendations also fell short of creating a minimum body mass Index or BMI limit. BMI measures ratio of weight to height.
The report's authors noted that using BMI does not accurately measure health. However, Italy and Spain have banned all models with a BMI of less than 18 -- effectively a size zero -- from fashion shows in those countries. A BMI of 18.5 is the World Health Organization's minimum healthy standard.
The report's authors noted that models are part of a profession at high risk of eating disorders but that there is a lack of knowledge about such disorders in the fashion industry. The authors said that overly thin models are fuelling criticism that the fashion industry is obsessed with thinness and dieting in the wider population.
Still, some who work in the industry say the approach is heavy-handed.
"I don't think it's right that the fashion industry should be dictated to by a booklet telling us that, you know, if a model is five foot ten inches, then she should be nine stone or something," British fashion designer Paul Costello told CTV.
Model Sasha Larner agreed it's problematic to set one standard that all models must fit: "There are very few of us, don't get me wrong, there are very few size zeroes, naturally, but they do exist."
Other Model Health Inquiry recommendations:
- Criminal record checks for agents, designers, and photographers working with models under the age of 16;
- Establish a health awareness program to help models and industry professionals recognize and get help for eating disorders;
- Establish a healthy backstage environment with quality food products;
- Limit digital manipulation of body shapes.